Chechens can take care of their remaining cultural hermitage better than others – so much was destroyed during the war that what’s left is cherished zealously. Even a modest waterfall away from main highways can be reached by neat pedestrian trails, just like in Europe. The republic boasts the best highways in the Caucasus. It’s clean everywhere, you can safely walk around cities at any time, as Chechnya has one of the lowest crime rates in Russia, 83rd place out of the 85 regions.

In the north of the republic, on the left bank of the Terek, some Cossack localities known as ‘stanitsas’ still exist. Cossacks hold on to their folklore, Orthodox faith, and essential components of hospitality – traditional feasts with wine, lard, and polyphonic singing. Starogladovskaya stanitsa features Leo Tolstoy Museum – the great writer was living there from 1851 to 1853.

Grozny is a modern city permeated by diversity, with cozy coffees shops and broad avenues. Century-old buildings erected by the English who used to extract oil in Chechnya sit alongside hi-tech skyscrapers of Grozny City. Solo dancers of state ensembles give virtuoso performances of lezginka, while young hipsters play indie and electronic music.

The exuberance of national cuisine can be best appreciated in the capital, from flatbreads with various fillings to stomach stuffed with liver. In April Grozny hosts the festival of shashlyk (kebabs), and at the end of winter – the festival of ramson. Chechens are so fond of this wild leek that they use wherever they can, as a side dish to meat, in smoothies, or ice-cream.